Conscientious Living: Lessons from the Tarahumara

Two young girls of the Tarahumara tribe smile in Copper Canyon.

Two young girls of the Tarahumara tribe smile in Copper Canyon.

Some say our societies are becoming more homogeneous. With increased globalization, diversity in our communities and social media connections, some wonder if our distinct differences are becoming blurred.

Is this a good thing? 

Or are we losing something in the process?

These questions came front and center on a recent trip to Copper Canyon in Mexico. To reach the canyon, home of the Tarahumara Indians, we boarded the famed El Chepe train in El Fuerte, one of Mexico’s ‘Pueblos Magicos” magical towns.  It’s  easy to get there from Baja where we were staying.  An overnight ferry ride from La Paz to Topolobampo, which runs 6 times per week, or a quick and affordable flight from La Paz to Los Mochos.  In either case once you arrive, there is a quick 2-hour drive to El Fuerte by van or taxi.

El Fuerte is a sweet town with a charming plaza surrounded by historic colonial buildings. The town is said to be the birthplace of “Zorro” at the Hildago Hotel. There is a lovely walk along the river with herons and other birds to observe and welcome walkers. Little English is spoken in the town and it seemed we were the only “gringo” faces to be seen.  People were kind and helpful but the town closes early – with very few bars to be seen.

The train  ride offered stunning views  and as we climbed into the mountains, we soon found ourselves no longer among cactus and dry plains, but among conifer trees which provided a palette of darker greens.  As we approached our stop at Barrancas de Cobre, we first noticed in slowing down the small Tarahumara Indian children running along the track with their handmade baskets and bags of apples hoping to make a sale to passengers leaning out the windows.

Their colorful and joyful colored blouses and skirts made me smile. After spending some time with them, I realized it reflected their inner spirit of peace and calm, curiosity and respect.

We disembarked and ensconced in our little finca at the rim of the canyons as we explored the area and villages.  As we hiked, we would spot the Tarahumara as shadows on cliffs above us.  We would wave and they would slowly wave back and soon a child was skipping down to us with a small woven basket  eager  to earn a coin for the family. We did not take their photos unless we asked and we were  given permission as  this is a shy culture hesitant to be anything more than simple farmers and weavers.

Many of you may have read about these indigenous Indians of Copper Canyon in the book Born to Run. Although the book exaggerates their lifestyle a bit and sensationalizes their uniqueness, the truth remains. This is a culture that has maintained and held on to their values and philosophy of life, despite the years of industrialization and influx of people mining in Copper Canyon and tourists visiting in increasing numbers. Unlike many other indigenous Indian tribes throughout Latin America who have been assimilated into the dominant western culture, the Tarahumara, whose real name is Raramuri, the “running people,”  have maintained their own identity.

Trying not to idealize them, it has been said by researchers and anthropologists and highlighted in “Born to Run”:

“Left in their mysterious canyons, hidden, this tribe strives to live in peace and has solved nearly every problem known to man…. Mind, body, or soul…working toward the end of hatred, corruption, greed and the health problems that plague modern man including obesity, drug addiction, diabetes, high blood pressure and depression.”

D. Dale Groom, an American physiologist who studied the physical endurance of this tribe of runners and published his findings in the American Heart Journal, writes “Probably not since the days of the ancient Spartans has a people achieved such a high state of physical conditioning.”

But my story is not about their amazing running feats of endurance and speed as runners but rather on their ability to collectively hold on to important cultural values of gentleness, lack of ego and cooperation that have supported and enabled this tribe to survive.

Yes, they are blessed with great running genes and conditioning opportunities by living in the mountains. But even more impressive to me is that the Tarahumara Indians are a rare and simple people who epitomize minimalism, standing by the values of “less is more” and together we are greater than any one part. 

As a western business gal, living the “good life,” I am humbled by the happiness and joy and joire de vivre of the children, the elders, the hardworking mothers and fathers who understand the principles of conscientious living.  Smiling, laughing and enjoying life including their local brew, they reflect honesty, authenticity, and humility. They have not lost these core values, under the influence of others, buffeting by “winds of change” to use a cliché.

There is a lesson in living for all of us.

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